2 X 2005 Tdi Aux. Heaters - What's The Difference?

[Fraz-ktf]

Here is a pic of the aux. heater on my 2005 130 Tdi, with it's broken exhaust.

 

I compared it to my friend's on his 2005 130 Tdi and they are radically different.  Different mounting points, different electrical connection plugs and different hose entry positions.

 

To search for a replacement for mine, how do I know which one I need?

 

Thanks

 

MINE:

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o600/JennyTaylia/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0029_zps4ed35b92.jpg  http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o600/JennyTaylia/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0028_zps3161a9dd.jpg  http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o600/JennyTaylia/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0027_zps7d561b35.jpg

 

MY FRIEND's:

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o600/JennyTaylia/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0034_zps0d2ddc94.jpg

 

Thanks

[SilverBeast]

Your is the newer one (like mine) fitted to the last MKII galaxy's. plug is a different pin out. Internal layout is different. What's wrong with yours (apart from the exhaust). Have you read any error codes with VCDS?

[Fraz-ktf]

Your is the newer one (like mine) fitted to the last MKII galaxy's. plug is a different pin out. Internal layout is different. What's wrong with yours (apart from the exhaust). Have you read any error codes with VCDS?

On mine, the exhaust has snapped off at both the silencer and where it joins the main body.  There are no VAG-COM error codes though but it just doesn't work / get hot.  Where is the glow plug situated and how would I access it?  Is it worth looking at?

[SilverBeast]

Just stripped and rebuilt mine.  It uses a glow pin (ceramic glow plug) mine was reporting

 

glow plug for heater open circuit

 

or

 

glow plug for heater short circuit

 

The controller PCB sits above the heater - right where it will get hot.  Most of the screws on mine sheard on dis-assembly and had to be drilled out.  I had to fit helicoils to most of the holes and replaced screws with stainless steel.  This included cover screws and mounting screws.

 

Here's the burner chamber taken apart

 

Glow Pin is at the front and has the fat (sorry horizontally challenged) wires - applied 12V from spare battery and it glowed fine

Here is is back together apart from the two plastic covers on the top.  The controller PCB has the input connections going in to it.

 

Unfortunately the controller seems to be prone to failure. I don't believe mine is working, though I haven't yet checked that the dosing pump is delivering diesel.

[SilverBeast]

Just a thought have you checked all the fuses are intact?  Also some people have had issues with the power wires to the heater failing and not delivering enough voltage.

 

Page 5 of the linked document tells you what you should see in VCDS. though it refers to your mates heater not yours.

[gregers]

also check that your run on pump is working.

[Fraz-ktf]

Just a thought have you checked all the fuses are intact?  Also some people have had issues with the power wires to the heater failing and not delivering enough voltage.

 

Page 5 of the linked document tells you what you should see in VCDS. though it refers to your mates heater not yours.

Where are the fuses located as I've not checked them.  Makes sense for a 1st port of call.

 

thanks for the link, I'll run VAG-COM again and do the tests and report back.

 

Thanks again guys

[SilverBeast]

Check your run on pump first.  If it's not running it the heater will overheat and shut down anyway.  Bushes seem to wear out around 80k miles. Replacement instructions here.  Pictures are from when I did mine.

 

Not sure about which fuses, Try Fuses 3 (5A), 12(25A) and maybe 19(5A)

[Fraz-ktf]

OK Guys, I checked for the Run-on Pump and what I could hear was coming from behind the coolant expansion chamber, like a small motor / pump running sound.  Is this correct?  Comes on with ignition and goes off with ignition.

 

Next I did the VAG-COM.  No Faults reported.

 

Did the output tests, as the linked article suggests.  I did the test with the engine off and it was 16 degrees outside (Ambient).

 

The "Combustion Air Blower" started up when I started the output test.  I clicked "Next" and it then checked the "Dosing/metering pump". After clicking Next, it closed down the Test.  No results anywhere but no warnings, so I'm not sure how to read that?

 

Measuring blocks gave the following results, again, engine off but ignition on.  For reference, I've put the "Correct" values / readings from the article first and my result in brackets after.

 

Section 1.

1. System Voltage 13v (Mine was -) engine was turned off though!

2. Combustion Temp. 330 degrees c (Mine = 20 degrees)

3. Coolant input temp.  (Mine = 16 degrees)

4. Coolant Output Temp.  (Mine 17 degrees)

 

Section 2.

1. Heater enabled  (Mine = ON)

2. Ext Temp Switch  (Mine = OFF)

3. NA

4. NA

 

Section 3.

1. Air Blower Status  (Mine = OFF)

2. Flame Sensor  (Mine = OFF)

3. Fuel Pump Status  (Mine = OFF)

 

I don't follow how to decipher my results and I wonder if I should be running the tests with the engine running (Though I always thought you shouldn't run VAG-COM with the engine running???)

 

Thanks a bundle for any good news :-) on the above results

Edited September 25, 2013 by Fraz-ktf

[bigdave982]

Itll only fire up with engine running cos its got to have water circulating, and outside/ambient temp below 10-12 degrees ,tho i think you may ge able to test with a full version of vagcom.not sure tho one of the gurus will soon correct me

[Fraz-ktf]

Itll only fire up with engine running cos its got to have water circulating, and outside/ambient temp below 10-12 degrees ,tho i think you may ge able to test with a full version of vagcom.not sure tho one of the gurus will soon correct me

I guess I need to know if it's safe to run the engine with VAG-COM plugged in?

[SilverBeast]

Yes it is. When you do that it can monitor live readings from all the engine sensors too.

 

Noise from behind coolant bottle sounds like run-on pump is OK assuming you made sure the fans for the climate control are not running (fan speed on the control panel wound down until it said off).

 

It won't try and run the booster heater until the engine is running, the engine temperature is less than 75C (heater enabled = ON) and Ext Temp Switch is ON (You can short together the two connections for this after unplugging the sensor which is fastened to the back of the wiper mechanism in front of the pollen filter).

 

If you had no faults logged when you first scanned it and have heard the "jet engine noise" then I would hazard a guess that it is OK.

[Fraz-ktf]

Yes it is. When you do that it can monitor live readings from all the engine sensors too. Noise from behind coolant bottle sounds like run-on pump is OK assuming you made sure the fans for the climate control are not running (fan speed on the control panel wound down until it said off). It won't try and run the booster heater until the engine is running, the engine temperature is less than 75C (heater enabled = ON) and Ext Temp Switch is ON (You can short together the two connections for this after unplugging the sensor which is fastened to the back of the wiper mechanism in front of the pollen filter). If you had no faults logged when you first scanned it and have heard the "jet engine noise" then I would hazard a guess that it is OK.

 

Thanks for the info man, I'll do a further "Measuring Blocks" test tomorrow with the engine running.  Yes, I turned the CC to OFF so the fans went off, so that is good news at least.

[niallsan]

Hi Fraz-kft

 

When you checked the dosing pump with Vagcom, did you hear it clicking?

Also, I would start engine first then run Vagcom. When done vice-versa, for me anyway, the engine would run for a second then cut out?????

 

If anyone has a knackered D5Z-F or suspect controller for same, if you post the controller to me I will try to get it working . No guarantees though!! If I get it working I'll send it back to you, if not, no point!!!! I have a morbid interest in these little things..and a long winter ahead!!!

Edited September 25, 2013 by niallsan

[Fraz-ktf]

Hi Fraz-kft

 

When you checked the dosing pump with Vagcom, did you hear it clicking?

Also, I would start engine first then run Vagcom. When done vice-versa, for me anyway, the engine would run for a second then cut out?????

 

If anyone has a knackered D5Z-F or suspect controller for same, if you post the controller to me I will try to get it working . No guarantees though!! If I get it working I'll send it back to you, if not, no point!!!! I have a morbid interest in these little things..and a long winter ahead!!!

 

 

Nope, I didn't hear anything but I was sitting inside the car.  Where would the click come from?  No errors (No reports at all) came after the test . . . . is that good news then?

[chrispb123456]

If you have no errors then it's likely the outside air temperature is not cold enough yet, needs to be below 10deg c.

If you want to force it to start you need to bridge the terminals of the plug on the temperature switch clipped to the wiper linkage, you will need to remove the bulkhead tray to do this.

[niallsan]

You wont get an error from vagcom by doing the tests. These only get logged when a fault occurs during a normal cycle of the heater.

Do the test for the dosing pump again and listen for clicking, about 3 clicks per second, coming from under drivers side passenger door. Leave the test to run for 30 seconds. I have a heater set up on my garage bench and noticed that when it hasn't been operated for a while a varnish/gum like substance builds up in the diesel line. When the heater/dosing pump runs again this gum travels up the line to the filter at the front of the pump and completely blocks it. Also this seems to affect the pump itself. If the pump hasn't been run for a while it won't click when the heater is started. It takes a spray of wd40 into the pump and a good few jump-starts to get it going. By 'jump-starts' I mean just disconnecting the pump from the heater wiring and connecting 12v across it. Seems to work anyway.

 

Long story short:- check pump test again; do as chrispb123456 says and either short wires under scuttle tray or better again put a switch in and run this to either engine bay or into the dash area so you have control and can switch it on when you want to.

 

N..